Thursday, March 27, 2025

Guest Post From pmac

Today we have our first guest post from pmac, who has written a wonderful piece about the Jazz scene, in Seville, Spain.

Back in 2020, when my wife and I made the decision to move from New Orleans to Seville, we did so on the mutual promise that we would attempt to fully immerse ourselves in Spanish/Sevillian culture. We both had an introduction to the Iberian ways when we had vacationed there a year before, and while we had enjoyed our lives in the US, in general, and New Orleans, specifically, we did not want to undertake such a “continental drift” with one foot still tethered to the land that we were leaving.  While we envisioned this entailing us giving up some of the very things that had come to define our lives in New Orleans (weekly visits to local jazz clubs), we felt that there would be more than a fair trade off with the sights and sounds that awaited us in our new locale (flamenco anyone?!?).


So, since we arrived in the middle of the pandemic shutdown (timing was never my strong suit), we began to explore the city of Seville masked, on foot, and in absolute silence, seeking out places that we would want to enter once our seclusion was lifted.  At that point we came to realize that there was a couple of jazz clubs that if the corona closures were survived we might get the proverbial best of both worlds at our fingertips.

Fast forward four plus years later. We now have, at our want, not less than 6 venues which offer live jazz, prompting numerous nightly dilemmas when we must choose between several gigs that all look to be worthwhile.  Here’s a rundown on some of the musicians and bands that have made our new lives, as Sevillanos, that much more enriching.

First, a bit of history. During the Franco era, jazz was outlawed, since the General saw it as an unwanted debasement of Spanish culture. Only after the US government pressured him into allowing it near military bases that the US had in Spain, was this prohibition lifted, but only as to allow 40s era big band shows, ala Miller, Goodman et. al. While modern jazz existed to a small extent in underground clubs, it wasn’t until Franco’s passing that the genre was able to flourish. As a result, the bebop era that defined a good portion of the jazz scene in the UK and the USA, was experienced much later in Spain and still flourishes today, together with a mix of NO style trad jazz (yep, its here in Seville and other parts of Spain), manouche/gypsy jazz and Arabesque influenced music.  For a great overview of this, I highly recommend a recent documentary made by a dear friend who is mainly responsible for our fast assimilation into Spanish culture, Manuel Calleja. You can view it for free, with English subtitles here:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ro5kYuUo78k

As mentioned above, bebop is alive and well in Seville.  There’s a great group of ypung horn players performing throughout the city, who are getting a somewhat formalized music education through two universities here that have degreed jazz studies programs (University of Seville and Loyola University), plus there’s an out post of the vaunted Berklee College of Music located somewhat close by in Valencia.  Two of the better horn players/composers in Seville, who are also recent grads of the U of Seville program are saxman Bernardo Parrilla and trumpeter, Nacho Loring. Check out the two of them featured in a recent concert, promoting the album release of original compositions by Loring.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgqjgYxdD1k

The pianist featured in the Loring clip, is Dane, Oscar Rifbjerg, a 20 plus year resident of Seville. Oscar also composes his own music, and has a new album that incorporate flamenco flourishes with Monk style piano riffs.  Here’s an example:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGaGvMBx96A

Once we started to get out to various jazz venues here, people kept insisting that we needed to meet Paula Padilla and listen to her main recording project, O’ Sister!. We met finally did so, and now are fortunate to have Paula as a close friend. Paula is quite simply a dynamo – she is a leading figure in several feminist movements, choreographs modern dance/swing shows, and composes music steeped in NO style trad jazz and Brazilian genres.  O’Sister is headed by her and two family members, brother Marcos Padilla, and cousin Matias Comino.  In the beginning of their 15 year run, O’ Sister! was known as a Boswell Sisters homage group, but over their 7 album run, they have morphed into a more modern jazz ensemble, performing their own compositions.  Last year they accomplished the equivalent of an American musician performing at Carnegie Hall, when they played to a sold out house at the Maestranza in Seville, in support of their recent album, 'Brand New Day' (which recording has won numerous awards in Spain and throughout the EU). Here’s a clip from that magical evening:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wl9h446OHQM

Finally, my next door neighbor is originally a kiwi (New Zealand), but has been in Seville for over 15 years. He also is an award winning composer and trumpet/pianist player, who regularly performs fronting a trio composed of himself and 2 native Sevilianos (Javi Orti on saxophone and Nacho Megina on drums), Com Trio.  Trevor has inventive takes on widely known melodies (he has incorporated passages from such diverse sources as Tchaikowsky, Beethoven and Brubeck in his compositions) and his sound is rooted in a post- modern bop genre.  Trevor also has a great parlor trick whereby he plays the trumpet and piano simultaneously.  I asked him to sing at the same time, but he politely declined.  Here’s Com Trio performing a track from their most recent release, PolyCycles.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ak_MwrS5LIU

So, if you’re still with me, in the posts below, tell us about an unexpected musical event for you. Maybe discovering a genre of music in an unexpected place (like what happened to us), an act that turned out to not be what you anticipated, or any other musical surprise. The reward will be O’Sisters! 'Brand New Day' lp.




25 comments:

  1. There's also a bonus surprise in the download, a copy of Com Trio's latest record.

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  2. What a great post and cool way to start the day. I've got two unexpected musical events, one of which you might relate to. When I was about 16, a bunch of stoopid white boys went over to Port Allen across the river from Baton Rouge to a club where it turned some guy called Percy Sledge was playing. Who knew. The other was in Grenada when I was a young professor and we lived there for a summer for me to interview revolutionaries. We lived in a "hotel" and on the weekends there was soca...

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  3. Oh man, that bar was a big gathering spot for LSU students on Sat night after the Baton Rouge city curfew went into effect and the bars had to close.

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  4. pmac,
    great piece. I wish I had seen this about a month ago. My brother spent two weeks in Seville in February and would have loved to get out for some local jazz.
    I guess not so unexpected, but still seminal in my music education. Back in the 60's my father would take us into NYC for a track meet or college Bball game at MSG. Afterward we would go up to Jimmy Ryan's so he could have a night cap and listen to Dixieland ( now Trad ). My brother and I had to stand in the back and there was always a musician would bring us a coke and some pretzels. My father know most of the players and we soaked up the music both there and at home in Jersey. It stuck with all three brothers to this day. I broadened my horizons out from Trad and now still find new music.
    So now my friends and I are headed to NOLA next week for FQF. Gotta absorb some more of that mixing bowl of music. We miss you down there, but you are doing what you need to do to stay sane. Enjoy!


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    1. Gracias, bumppa! I honestly miss the French Quarter Fest more than I do Jazz Fest. And, its not just the money issue, its the preservation of NO culture and music which is done much more so with FQF. Enjoy and if you, or anyone else, ever needs recommendations in Seville, holla.

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    2. I will keep that in mind. WE bailed on JazzFest when Hall & Oates were to be the headliners - WHAT???

      We are headed to the EU in the fall if they still take in Americans. I will give you an update on FQF sometime on the Babsnet

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    3. Yeah, Jazz Fest has been that way for decades. The line they pitch is that they need to move tickets to raise money to keep the culture in tact, and they need headliners outside of NO to sell the tickets. As someone who was on the "inside", I can tell you in no uncertain terms that the money isn't going to the "culture" and its being fed to keep the fat cats "fat." You could remove the big names that get all the money with the reciprocal drop in ticket sales, and they would make more money to be able to promote local music and culture year round. But, you can't justify numerous trips across the globe seeking talent, and all the other perks that entails, if you keep the money in the backyard. So, the grift continues.

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  5. When I was a boy, my mom decided that I needed piano lessons, she promptly purchased a spinet, which I still have. I had lessons with 3 different teachers in about a year & a half, and I didn't really care for practising all that much, would've rather been just about anywhere else most of the time.
    When we moved here to Ohio in 1994, we stayed with my in-laws until we bought a home to live in. While there (at the in-laws), my wife's brother was in a band and they saw the piano. They wrote a song using that piano. Later they asked if I could play, I said I could 30 years ago. They quickly added, you're in the band. It was a Grateful Dead & classic rock cover band.
    I eventually caught on & was even able to almost keep up. Believe me, you are rusty after 30 years of not playing music. But I was good at listening. I caught on after a while. Lotsa practices in a 3rd story attic. Fun when others are involved & of course trendy chemical amusement aid.
    One day my brother in-law brought over an accordion, set it down & said, I got this for you, learn it, you owe me $250.
    That's my musical surprise. Surprised me, that's for sure! Thanks pmac & thanks Babs.

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    1. Nice remembrance mumbles. Nowhere near as musically inclined as you but similar story with me. Got a guitar when I was about 12 and played/took lessons for 2 years, and then put it away for roughly 45 years. When I turned 60, I decided I wanted to start again, so I bought a semi-decent acoustic (prior ones were all electric) and brought it with us to Spain. Been fortunate to be able to sit in on some of my friend's manouche gigs, and also have played at parties at our apartment.

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  6. First and foremost, thank you pmac for the beautiful and informative piece!



    My musical surprise was The Grateful Dead. Back when my husband and I were first dating in 1967, I invited him to my dorm room to smoke weed listen to music etc. etc. When Jerry arrived, he brought a bunch of albums with him, one of which was The Dead’s first album. At the time, I thought the name Grateful Dead was in poor taste. It was 1967 and the Vietnam War was in full swing. I kept getting letters from friends, telling me about guys I went to high school with, who did not go to college, returning to Brooklyn in body bags.

    Jerry explained the meaning, concept and origin of The Grateful Dead, played the album, which sounded nothing like I thought it might. That was start of a life long love affair with The Dead.



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    1. Gracias, babs! Its interesting how many jazz musicians are dead heads. Allen Toussaint was a fellow dead head.

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    2. s I've written about before, when we moved to Berkeley for a year from the bayous when I was in 8th grade, a friend took me over for an all-day Golden Gate Park Dead and the rest of the usual suspects show & my poor li'l mind was fully blown...prolly the second hand smoke too

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  7. Phantom Of The Rock OperaMarch 27, 2025 at 9:38 PM

    Most of my musical surprises involve me digging through endless number of boxes of vinyl at boot fairs before finding a gem of a single or album being sold for next to nothing. However probably the biggest was hearing a local band who I knew personally played on BBC Radio 1 nationally for the first time. I wasn't expecting to hear the song which had only been released a few days. The band in question were the Rivals and their second and final single which was a cover of Them's Here Comes The Night actually made the Radio 1 playlist. Sadly it didn't help them reach the charts and the band broke up shortly after.

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    1. Oh man, I understand that feeling. My son has a band back in the States, The Debtors (kinda Indy rock). First time I heard their music being played on a radio station, it hit me hard (in a good way).

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  8. I've been a huge fan of trumpet maverick Jon Hassell since I was a teenager (51 now)...one day back in the 90's I was at Aron's records in Hollywood, California listening to a stack of used cds mostly selected by interesting album covers. One cd was songs by a male choir from the island of Corsica. Flipping through the liner notes I saw Jon Hassell's name on a few tracks and skipped ahead to listen to those. Some dude brought a stack of cds to the player next to mine. I did a double take and pulled my headphones off saying "hey, you look just like Jon Hassell"...he paused and said "well, I am Jon Hassell"...and I said "I'm listening to you right now!"

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    1. Lol! Nice one! If you get a chance, let us know the name of that Corsica choir recording.

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    2. This is it!

      Les Nouvelles Polyphonies Corses With Hector Zazou

      https://www.discogs.com/master/207990-Les-Nouvelles-Polyphonies-Corses-With-Hector-Zazou-Les-Nouvelles-Polyphonies-Corses-Avec-Hector-Zazo

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    3. Many thx! Listening now and its really good.

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  9. Here's the link, which contains both lps: O' Sister's Brand New Day and Com Trio's PolyCycle. Enjoy and thanks to all for the comments. And, a special thanks to Babs for allowing me to post the article!
    https://mega.nz/folder/kz5FDQIY#6833qfnKn7yxy8PAkseVww

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    1. Both are excellent!
      Muchas gracias mi amigo

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    2. Thanks pmac, both are very good. O Sister reminds me of a cross between the Quebe Sisters, (triple fiddles & 3 part harmony), old standards & western swing & Lambert, Hendricks & Ross, old memories of my mom's albums. Thanks pmac & thanks Babs

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  10. Strolling through Bangkok's sprawling Chatuchak outdoor market I came upon a Thai quartet playing very credible bluegrass. Between songs I called out "Just like Earl Scruggs!" earning big beams from the band. In Sofia, Bulgaria we encountered a busking bagpipe player with monster chops who could play anything from Broadway show tunes to modal jazz and all points in between.
    Thanks for the music and context, pamac!

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    1. De nada, amigo! There's actually a western swing band in Seville, that is very good. Its headed by a guitarist from Oregon, but he's been in Seville for over 20 years - Ian Scionti and Western Connection. They are on all the usual streaming services. The pedal steel player on the album is Paul Laborde, a Sevillian Romani who is one of the best manouche guitarists in all of Spain.

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  11. I went with a friend to a local place (Speakerbox) in Bangkok earlier this month to see a Stones tribute band. However there were 3 other bands as well, all unknown to me. One of them, called Aliens On Earth, blew us away. They played a funky kind of Molam style instrumentals which was well received by the audience. They were the real highlight of the evening! I included a short clip in my blogpost: https://www.art58koen.net/single-post/one-night-in-bangkok

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  12. Thanks for the "Our Man in Seville" scene report and music -- very nice! I guess the biggest musical surprise was being turned on to Punk rock circa 1979 by my friend's older brother (who was always are musical pied piper). Hearing early X, Black Flag, Circle Jerks, etc. after listening to Van Halen and other 70s rock was an enlightening experience.

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